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DIY Separates: McCalls 8047 Hack

Writer: Faith St JulietteFaith St Juliette

Hi everyone! I hope all is well with you. The weather here in Atlanta has been very pleasant, but this weekend, the heat came with a vengeance once the morning turned into afternoon. All in all, it has been beautiful here. I think that Mother Nature has been very happy considering there are not many cars on the roads pushing out pollutants into the air. Many people staying home seems to have been positive for the environment. Now that we have gotten the small talk out of the way, let’s get into why I am writing this blog post today, McCalls 8047 #ediemccalls. This blog post is very honest and not meant to sway anyone’s feelings on the said pattern, I am just giving my honest opinion on my experience working with this pattern. Continue reading for the breakdown.

Pattern Used

I used McCalls 8047 jumpsuit pattern. There are three views to this pattern, off the shoulder, strapless, and wrap front and back bodice. There is also a shorts, pants, and elastic cuffed leg view. The required fabric is a moderate stretch knit and tricot knit for the lining.

Size Cut

I have been using McCalls patterns for years, and after a few trial and errors, I came to understand sizing and fit for the big fours. If you are interested in seeing what I learned, check out this Youtube video of pattern sizing. Since I figured out what size works for me in the big four, I have been cutting the same size for years, without any issues. I honestly rarely use a muslin to test unless I am planning to hack the pattern in some way, however, I do try on as I sew. I have since gained a few pounds, but my measurements have not gone up much. Now I cut between two sizes. For knits, I cut a 12, and for wovens, I cut between a 12 and 14 for bodices, and a 14 for bottoms in McCalls. For Simplicity and Vogue patterns, I cut a 14 for knits, and between a 14 and 16 for wovens. For Butterick and the other big for family, I often use muslin, because their sizing is way off. My bust is 36, my waist is 29, and my hip is a 39. For this pattern, I cut a size 14 because I was using a moderate stretch ponte knit. I knew that because of the cut of the pattern and the medium weight of the fabric, I needed to go up a size.

Modifications

I originally cut this pattern as a jumpsuit, but I was not a fan of it after I tried it on. It was so difficult to pull on, as it needed a zipper for the size I cut for the bodice, but I did not cut the back bodice for a zipper. For it to go on as it was meant to without a zipper, I would have had to cut between a 16 and 18 for the bodice and keep the pants at a 14. The pattern does call for elastic to be placed at the neckline/shoulder area, which would have been fine, if I knew that the sizing on this pattern would be off, and had cut a larger size. Since I cut the pattern at a 14, which was also the suggested size on the back of the envelope, the shoulder area fit good and snug, which was a part of the problem in pulling it on. I decided that the best decision was to turn it into separates, that way I could just pull the top over my head and pull the pants on. If it were a dress pattern, I would have no complaints at all, because I would be able to pull it over my head instead of having to worry about pulling it on through the neckline. In order to turn this pattern into separates, I had to look for scraps to use as a band to lengthen the top, and I had to cut about three inches off of the pants waistline to make a waistband for it. I had extra fabric, but I had already used it to make a top that I love. If I knew ahead of time that I was going to turn this pattern into separates, I would have just lengthened the bodice, and cut a wider waistband for the pants. However, sometimes you have to take the lemons you are given, and make lemonade. That is what I did, because I do like it as separates, it just sucks that the finishes are not as good looking as I would’ve like.

Final Thoughts on McCalls 8047

This all comes down to a sizing issue, which is something that the “Big Four” has been struggling with for a long time. It just sucks, because I had my sizing down, and now moving forward I will have to go back to using muslin first to be safe, because I do not want to waste good fabric due to creator sizing errors. I do not like the way the top looks, I preferred it to be longer, and I do not like the band on it (I had to do what I had to do though). The pants is okay, but I would’ve wanted the waist a bit higher. To be honest, this is a very cute pattern, and I believe that if it were not for the sizing issues, I would have made a jumpsuit that I love instead of separates that I just like. Since I do have this pattern, and I now know what needs to be done, I will make it again with the correct adjustments for the bodice.

The band for the top is wider than the waistband for the pants 😦

The Brighter Side

Do you remember the extra fabric that I spoke of earlier on in this post? Well, I made a top out of it that I absolutely love. The pattern that I used is McCalls 7722 Which is one of my TNT patterns. I love this pattern so much. I cut view D, but omitted the lower half of the sleeeve, and cut a two inch band to add to the gathered bottom of the sleeve. I will definitely be wearing this top with the pants I made above, and with other pieces in my closet. I am truly happy that I made this top.

Thank you guys so much for taking the time to read my blog. I know that this one was a little longer than my usual, but I had a lot to say, lol. Please comment below and let me know if you have used this pattern, and your experience with M8047. Also, don’t forget to subscribe to my blog so that you will be alerted when I post new content. Have a blessed day.

“Chances are when you fall asleep with a prayer of gratitude on your lips, you’ll wake up with a song of joy in your heart.”

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